Day 4 - 8th March 2013, Kraków

Today was a fairly uneventful day, as were mainly preoccupied with travelling by train from Warsaw to Kraków, which took a little over two hours, and on a pleasant and comfortable inter-regional train. After arrival, as usual, we made our way to the place where we would be staying, known as the Aston hotel on Ul. długa (Long street). Trams run along this street shuttling between the edges of the historic centre, known as the Planty, and the marketplace known as Nowy Kleparz, where there are lots of stalls selling food, flowers and other goods generally in daily demand.

A bike with my name near our hostel - it's destiny!

We first discovered this market in the December of 2006 on our first visit to Poland, when it was wonderfully decorated and had lots of stalls selling intriguing Christmas food products and decorations and other colourful regalia. We discovered it quite by accident as the area also serves as somewhat of a transport interchange between trams and buses, which led to the hotel we stayed in.

Our accommodation in a Polish apartment

In any case, upon reaching our accommodation we were somewhat surprised to discover that our room was not in the same building where the reception bureau was, but was actually in a second building across the street. For me at least, this is one of the quirky delights of travelling in Poland. Although our accommodation was technically a hostel, it was really just a set of apartments that had been taken over by the company that operated it, and as such utilises a multitude of buildings in the area to provide accommodation for temporary visitors or residents. This is a particularly Polish phenomenon to me and means that your lodgings are inevitably much more pleasant than a typical travellers hostel would be likely to be.

One of the Polish traditional Szopki (Nativity scenes).

 This turned out to be the case, as we had a nice big room leading off a large hall with a kitchen and bathroom attached. It felt more like we were in our own private apartment than a hostel, as at least for the first night, we were alone in the place. The only downside was being three storeys up and no lift, but this was less a problem for me than my Dad, and in any case Polish people are used to this sort of thing - often hardier folk than those in what I call the West (i.e. Britain). By the time we had familiarised ourself with the local area it was almost evening and so our stomachs were calling our for something to eat. We made our way to the main square and down to the Milk Bar on Ul. Grodzka. 

Advert promoting an international volunteering programme.

Milk Bars (known in Polish as Bar Mleczny) are another historically Polish phenomenon. They offer good, home-made cuisine in simple, informal surroundings and at an excellent price. We ate Polish meat cutlets with mashed potatoes, peas and carrots, washed down by a Polish fruit milkshake (very different to those at home, and healthier) and a chocolatey cake specific to the region we were in. All very enjoyable and cost only £3.50 (17zł) per person! Following this, we made our way to the Ethnografic museum (Muzeum etnograficzne) which showcases traditional Polish lifestyles, folk art and cultural phenomena. The most interesting was an impressive display of szopki (nativity scenes) made by hand out of various pieces of coloured foil - the museum had an impressive number of these of astonishing size, and were made all the more beautiful by being lit up for us. We were the only guests in the museum so to go to this effort was touching.

After this it was getting dark, so we went to a cellar bar (Kraków is notorious for these) near our hotel and had a drink before heading back. Wouldn't have minded buying the barman a drink, as he was very nice, but I thought I might give the wrong (or right!) impression ;) - better luck next time!

Link to day 5: http://travellingcyclist2k.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/day-5-9th-march-2013-oswiecimauschwitz.html

Day 3 - 7th March 2013

Today was our last full day in Warsaw, and as we had done the modern side of the city, we decided to concentrate on the Royal Way and the areas around the Old and New towns. Confusingly enough, in addition to the modern part of town as defined by the 'Śródmieście' (City Centre) and the areas around the Central Station, Warsaw also has both an Old Town (Stare Miasto) and a New Town (Nowe Miasto). Due to an unfortunate aberration in history, the New Town is actually older than the Old Town. Confusing, I know.

Old Town Square in Warsaw

This unfortunate state of affairs came about due to a certain Hitler's imperialist and territorialist ambitions over Poland (in addition to many other European countries) and resulted in Warsaw being completely decimated during World War II, such that there was nothing left of Warsaw's historic architectural legacy and what it once was, except for a bunch of photos. Fortunately, these photos were taken as historical reference points and through the 1950's right up and including to the 1970's, Warsaw was slowly put together to look exactly as it once had, honouring it's architectural legacy and pride as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Rather than making Warsaw a tragic place to visit, bearing this in mind only serves to make it more fascinating, and results in an attachment between the visitor and the city unusual in many other cities on the continent and overseas.

Castle Square (Plac Zamkowy) in Warsaw

Walking around the Old Town itself is a real pleasure, particularly when you get to the Main Square (Rynek Starego Miasta). It is much smaller than many other main squares in Poland, which is ironic given that this is the capital, but it is important to remember that this is a medieval square that was originally built in the 15th and 16th centuries. The fact that it has been built to almost exactly the same standards before is a credit to Poland's architects and to the sense of character and beauty that architects of the original period also had. The town houses and tall buildings will be immediately familiar to many people who have seen other European capitals, but those of Warsaw's old square are that much smaller as to be almost like a model village, yet one that is living and breathing in it's own right. That alone makes it somewhat special. Dotted by cafes, restaurants and a few tasteful souvenir shops, Warsaw's original town has risen from the ashes like a phoenix, both commemorating it's tragic history and looking to the future with passion and enthusiasm.

Traditional Polish crafts on sale in the Old Town

For me personally, one of the highlights of the main square is a man who sits in the centre, playing an organ with various tunes and ornaments dotted around it. He is quite clearly meant to appeal to tourists, but somehow he just fits, and you can buy a unique postcard from him and have your photo taken for the mere sum of 1zł each (20p). This simple yet pleasurable pasttime harks back to the past whilst reminding younger people of the traditions of yesteryear that still hold meaning for Poland now, and hopefully also in the future. Such a simple thing is often missing from squares in the centre of London, for instance.

Traditional Polish food in the New Town

Following a pleasant stroll around the main square, we made our way to see the New Town, by way of a detour of an exhibition of the Old Town then and now, showcasing pictures and videos of the area both before and after the war. This made an interesting aside on the way to the New Town, which is very similar to the Old Town except the streets are wider and there is more space, yet still with that familiar sense of evading the modern whilst still embracing it sufficiently to remain relevant in the 21st century. We stopped off to eat here in a restaurant called 'Zapiecek', where I was served with traditional Polish soup with grilled sausage in a silver bowl with a candle underneath to keep it warm whilst you serve yourself several times. This was accompanied by wonderful Polish bread that is very different to that in the UK, and in my opinion much tastier. Following this I enjoyed a coffee and traditional Polish apple cake - all of which came to the princely sum of less than £6.

A Metro stop representing modern Warsaw

As we had done some significant sightseeing at this point, we decided to take it a bit easier and gave Dad a ride on the Metro to the last stop, where there is a tram terminus and Dad could spend some time taking photos. Instead of taking the Metro back the way we had came, we got on a tram that took us through some of Warsaw's northern suburbs. It is here, unfortunately, that the darker side of Communism can still be seen in the uniform grey apartment buildings that dot the landscape. Undoubtedly, this is not the only side there is to Warsaw's suburbs, but it is here that the incidence can most keenly be felt. On the way back we stopped off at another modern shopping centre to pass the time before heading back to the hostel. I would later on meet my friend with whom we would share a drink and catch up on the time since we last saw each other. A pleasant end to a pleasant day.

Link to day 4: http://travellingcyclist2k.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/day-4-krakow.html

Day 2, 6th March 2013

Woke reasonably early today, with a full day of sightseeing planned. The first stop was the Złote Tarasy (Golden Terraces) shopping centre near the main station, as Dad wanted some batteries for his camera and we also needed to exchange some money. Perhaps the most valuable piece of advice I can give about travel in Poland is ALWAYS exchange your money, or as much of it as possible in Poland after your arrival. You will always get a better exchange rate than in your own country, and often will be able to get a better rate the more you exchange if you ask. As an example, at the time of this trip, travel agents and exchange centres in my town were offering 4.50zł to the £1, where-as those in Warsaw were offering an average of 4.72. It may not sound like much but it does make a difference.

Inside the Złote Tarasy shopping centre

In any case, we were rather impressed by the shopping centre, furnished inside as it was with lots of green plants and a curiously curved glass roof - and all in the shadow of a huge guitar from the Hard Rock Cafe and the Palace of Culture and Science. Nevertheless, we didn't hang about here for long and made our way towards the remains of the Ghetto wall that can be found in the city. They are quite difficult to find, located at Sienna Street no. 55 (Ul. Sienna 55). You can enter if you're lucky from the gate on the street itself, but the best and easiest way is to go to the next junction with Twarda street (Ul. Twarda) and then immediately turn left on to Złota street (Ul. Złota - Street of Gold) and you will walk past some shops. In between the Marcpol delicatessen and a clock-makers shop is an inconspicious gate that actually has signposts leading to the wall remains, saying 'Miejsce pamięci' - literally, Place of Memory.

The Palace and Culture of Science and the Hard Rock cafe.

From here it is easier, and you can exit after the second wall fragment you can exit back onto Sienna street, from where it easy to make your way back to the centre by turning right. I found myself thinking perhaps it is a good thing that it is not easily accessible and requires some effort to find - it is not a place that is bustling with tourists, and it shouldn't be. This is a place where due respect is required and a quiet contemplation. It is eerily quiet given the proximity to one of Warsaw main streets, al. Jana Pawła II (John Paul II Avenue) but this only augments the possibilities for quiet reflection and contemplation.

A stone with a Jewish star left in tribute to victims of the Holocaust. 

Following this sombre detour, we made our way to the Warsaw Railway Museum (Muzeum kolejnictwa) which my Dad wanted to see. Entry costs 12zł (around £2.50) and there is an indoor exhibition with lots of model trains and railway memoribilia, and, perhaps most interestingly for rail enthusiasts, a significant outdoor exhibition with many old locomotives to explore and photograph. Perhaps the most interesting exhibit for visitors to Poland is the one remaining war train that is stored here, complete with a cannon built into it. One can only imagine the horrific uses to which it was put, but it makes for an interesting change to the more everyday passenger service locomotives to be found here. On the way out, I picked up a small booklet with pictures of the trains on show and information on each of them (that I will have to translate) for my Dad. Nonetheless, it made for an inexpensive and interesting souvenir for him.

The only remaining war train in Europe.

Upon leaving the museum, we took a tram back to the central station and the shopping centre in order to buy a few necessary food items in the supermarket here. We had decided rather than splash out eating out, tonight we would buy some nice items from the supermarket and cook a nice dinner in the hostel. Since Dad's stomach had been playing up over the past few days, we didn't go for anything heavy and just bought some nice Italian pasta and sauce to make a simple dish - we weren't doing very well on the Polish food front up to this point, but this would soon be rectified.

A water fountain for filling up trains at the Railway Museum.

After this we made our way back to the hostel, cooked our food and settled in for the evening, only nipping out for one drink onto New World street for another of those famous 4zł drinks. Time to call it a night!

Link to day 3: http://travellingcyclist2k.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/day-3-7th-march-2013.html

Day 1, 5th March 2013: Warsaw

Arrived at the main airport in Warsaw, and in Poland, Frederic Chopin, named after the famous composer. Our flights had originally been to the smaller Warsaw Modlin airport, which is some way out, but due to problems with the runway for the foreseeable future, our flight had been changed to come here. Fortunately, this worked out better for us, as it is only a short trip from the City centre, compared to Modlin airport which is a good 30 miles out of town and requires a relatively expensive and significant coach ride to the centre of Warsaw.

Palace of Culture and Science

We arrived at around 6pm in the evening, just as it was getting dark and took one of the shiny, modern new airport trains to the centre, and since it was part of the three-day public transport ticket (Bilet trzydniowy) we bought the journey did not cost us any extra. However, since it normally only costs 4.60 in Polish złoty (zł.) - around 95 pence - for this ticket, it still isn't particularly expensive. As in most places outside of the UK, public transport in Poland is a steal compared to the inefficient and overpriced system that reigns in the UK. We got out at the Central station (Warszawa Centralna) as opposed to the nearest station to our hostel, so as to be welcomed by the magnificient towering figure of the Palace of Culture and Science (Pałac Kultury i Nauki - abbreviated frequently to PKiN).

University gates on the Royal Way

Naturally, our priority was checking into the place we would be staying, which was located on Tamka street (Ul. Tamka), only a 5 minute walk from Krakowskie Przedmieście, the main thoroughfare in the centre of Warsaw, and part of the Royal Way (Trakt Królewski) that stretches from here to Warsaw's southern reaches and beyond at the palace in Wilanów. After checking in, time was marching on and we decided to take a walk down Krakowskie Przedmieście at night with a view to seeing the Old Town lit up (Stare Miasto). This proved to be a rewarding walk and introduced us to the delights of cosy bars, cafes and restaurants that looked extremely inviting in the frosty Winter air, and we made a bid to return later in the trip. We also saw a shop that sold some a variety of wonderfully colourful items made from Polish crystal - something to add to my collection when I'm a rich man, perhaps!

A selection of Polish crystal products in the Old Town

After viewing the Old Town and ambling around some of the streets, we decided to have a welcome to Warsaw drink, so as we were walking back along the Royal Way, we stopped at a bar where all drinks were 4zł (about 80p) - I indulged in a small glass of wine and Dad enjoyed a glass of beer. By this time it was well after 10, so after a tiring day of travelling, we decided to head back to the hostel and get our heads down for a nights sleep, ready for the exciting full day of sightseeing ahead of us the next day.

Link to Day 2: http://travellingcyclist2k.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/poland-day-2-6th-march-2013-warsaw.html

Cardiff - A travelling cyclists perspective

Last month I travelled to Cardiff for a few days, to see someone and acquaint myself with Wales vibrant and modern Capital city. Apart from a brief caravan holiday at Ty Mawr in North Wales when I was six months old, back in the dim and distant summer months of 1987 (I myself can't remember much from that period), I can safely say that I have never really experienced Wales in any respect, at least until now.

My visit to Cardiff took place during the Olympics, and I was immediately impressed by the general feel of the city, exceptionally clean and presentable, and naturally bursting with colour, with Olympic flags all over the place and general merriment in the air that made this city by the Bay both appealing and welcoming. I hadn't known what to expect from my trip to Wales, or more specifically Cardiff, but what I found was a very pleasant surprise. Like any Capital city, Cardiff seems to be bursting with culture, not simply the usual mix of music, arts and entertainment, but culture with a distinct Welsh edge.

Welsh can be seen (and heard) in various places around Cardiff, something the first time visitor may not expect, especially those from other parts of the UK, and I refer specifically to my own country of origin, England. I don't know if it is the same for other parts of Europe and the UK, but many where I am from are highly unaware of the extensive presence of the Welsh language and it's long history, or of the attractive nature of Cardiff, and undoubtedly other parts of Wales itself. Cardiff is full of interesting shops and museums, with wide, grand open streets and boulevards and majestic buildings in the heart of, or very close to, the City centre. The National Museum of Wales in particular was made even more impressive by the presence of the mighty Olympic rings in Cathays Park.

Not only that, but the magnificent Castle right in the heart of the city gives Cardiff a unique and historical feel, without compromising its integrity as a modern city with all the conveniences both travellers and locals might need. Perhaps the most pleasant element of Cardiff, however, is the wonder of Bute Park. Again, very close to the Centre, the park is almost like a miniature National Park, easily accessible by residents, locals etc.

In a blog such as this, mention must also inevitably be given to Cardiff as a cycling city. Unfortunately, I did not get chance to cycle in the city, and thus cannot write from the perspective of a cyclist, but from what little I saw, Cardiff is making impressive attempts to make cycling a pleasant and enjoyable experience. The major road around the Castle in particular appears to have reasonable provision for cyclists, and the magnificent riverside trail running through Bute Park and to the north makes cycling a safe and attractive proposition for many who live in the areas surrounding it. I hope that at some point in the not-too-distant future, I will get to test out Cardiff from a cyclist's perspective.

Last, but by no means least, due mention must also be given to the efforts by the Welsh Government and Cardiff City Council in making full use of the Welsh language on road signs and buildings. From my limited time there, Cardiff feels like a bilingual city, where Welsh has equal status with English, and it would be a missed opportunity if any who came to live in the City from outside (something by no means unthinkable, given the pleasant nature of the city) did not at least consider taking up Welsh on some level - Cardiff certainly seems like a good place for newcomers to begin any adventure with Wales, as it provides a nice gentle introduction to Wales, whilst gradually easing you in to the specifically Welsh aspects of the country that can undoubtedly be explorer further in more rural parts of the country. I certainly feel that my own Welsh adventure has not ended here.

Cycling in Dublin

Well, I've been in Dublin just over a week now, and have been doing some cycling more or less every day, principally to and from the City, and in and around Churchtown/Dundrum, the area where I'm currently staying. My commute to the city takes in Churchtown Road Lower, Milltown Road, Sandford Road, Ranelagh Road and over the Charlemont Bridge down Camden Street, ending up in Drury Street cycle parking facility. On the return I take a similar route but going back up Dundrum Road so as to call at the shopping centre on the way home.

In general, I'm quite happy with cycling in Dublin - cycling on Dundrum, Sandford and Ranelagh Roads is relatively smooth and comfortable compared to roads I've ridden on in other places I've lived, with wide cycle lanes and no real obstacles to going at a constant speed into the city. When doing it early morning there's a tendency to find delivery vehicles parked in the cycle lane, along with a few taxis and other vehicles, the same is true in late afternoon, but getting round them doesn't appear to be too much of a problem, although it would inevitably be better if they didn't. Milltown Road could do with some resurfacing, as it's quite bumpy and not a comfortable ride, particularly on a road bike, and the same is true of Dundrum's Main Street - rather bumpy and not much room for cyclists, really, though as it's one of the shorter, less busy roads in the city I can just about bear it.

One thing I've found interesting in this city is that the traffic lights go straight from red to green, with no orange light in-between - very different to the UK, but something I've adapted to quickly. To say my commute is 4/5 miles each way, it only seems to take 25-30 minutes max, and doesn't feel like a drag, which is impressive considering I've previously only had to travel 2-2.5 miles in the past. The only issue I have is that the commute to the city is all downhill, whilst on the way back it's all uphill - the climb isn't particularly strenuous, but requires a bit more effort at the end of the day! As for cycling in the city, I consciously avoid streets such as O'Connell and Westmoreland, and the quays if possible, as I simply don't feel comfortable cycling on them. My wish is for cycling to be a pleasure, not a chore, and I find those streets simply too busy and uncomfortable for my liking - they simply don't suit cyclists. For now though, I shall be maintaining my current cycle commute, and probably alternating it with taking the Luas once the money starts rolling more freely.

Cycle trip 5: Edale-Edale Circuit

Date: 22nd July 2012
Length of route: 12.2 miles/19.5km
Route: Edale-Barber Booth-Mam Tor-Winnat's Pass-Castle-Hope-Edale
Difficulty level: Medium

Cycling in the Peak District National Park is exciting for a number of reasons, not least the abundance of quiet country roads, green scenery, shops selling local produce and the likelihood of meeting more than one fellow cyclist. On a weekend in the Peak District, with (very) fine weather and a place to stay, I decided to take my bike along and do a complete loop, starting and finishing in Edale where I was based.

Initially, I left the campsite where I was staying and rode down the road to the end of the village, taking a right to the next small settlement along of Barber Booth, which is the opposite of the way I normally go, so I had never been that way before. Upon leaving Barber Booth, the road became very steep and winding as I made my way up the prominent landmark of Mam Tor. Before very long, impressive vistas opened up to the left, although I had to stop a few times to appreciate these due to the effort of climbing. Perhaps it was due to it being a hot day, or my having been out of the saddle for a while, but this was a real effort to climb, and may just be one of the steepest climbs I have ever done. Nevertheless, I did not need to get off the bike and walk up in-between rests, and I met a couple of cyclists who had made their way up all the way from Sheffield, so I tailed them for a while until I got to the top, which proved to be a useful motivating factor!

The real reward came as I crested the last rise of the hill, which led straight into a long downhill stretch that would lead to the road back to Castleton, although it didn't take very long to get to the bottom of it on my bike! Following this were a few twists and turns where I had to check the map to make sure I took the right path to Castleton. This was confirmed by the presence of Winnat's Pass to my left, a unique formulation of narrow and tall rocks which it is possible to ride/drive through along a very narrow and steep downhill road.

To say that Mam Tor was a steep uphill ride is nothing compared to the downhill challenge that Winnat's Pass represents. I was not the only cyclist to be taking the descent down into Castleton (a few even overtook me), but with the road being so narrow and steep, I had my hand on my brakes at all times and this was the most I ever had to use my brakes, and it took real effort to keep them on and maintain control of the bike, such is the level of the descent - or perhaps the level of my confidence in handling such downhill stretches! Nevertheless, I survived it and before I knew it I was in Castleton.

The road from Castleton to Hope was long and flat, so I managed to get up a bit of constant speed before turning off onto the Edale road, where I made my way back to Edale quite rapidly due to the largely flat nature of the road. Although the route overall was quite short, it was quite difficult in the sense of having a very steep uphill climb and the most challenging descent I have ever experienced. Nevertheless, all in all it was a pleasant ride, and when I got back to the campsite I genuinely felt I had only reached half of the potential miles in me for that day!