Days 3-4: Inverness - 2-3 March 2015

It was as we were travelling by train to Inverness that I began to feel really excited and as if I was really on holiday, as it was almost three years since I had last been up this way (hard to believe), when I had taken a trip with some classmates from uni. For me Inverness was the place furthest north I would visit on this trip, and the last bastion of 'commercial' life before the Highlands proper to the north and west, and home to the legendary Ross County football club (based in Dingwall) - possibly the subject of many a joke by the locals.

The cosy living area in Bazpackers Hostel.

We were to stay in Bazpackers Hostel in Inverness, which although strangely named is actually very cosy and welcoming, based in a Georgian townhouse with roaring coal fire, cosy conservatory and excellent views over the river and castle from our twin room upstairs. We arrived to very sunny and mild conditions, so while Mum had a rest I went out for a wander and to do a few shops, returning with some whisky-flavoured fudge from Orkney and two bottles of beer from a local Scottish brewery in the Cairngorm mountains. By the time I returned to our accommodation the weather had changed completely and it had begun to snow!

Scottish Saltire flag on Inverness castle

We ate that night in the Castle Tavern restaurant right next to the hostel, where I thoroughly enjoyed neeps 'n tatties (potatoes and swede) topped with haggis in a whisky cream sauce. I also had a cheeky dram of whisky, chosen from the very useful whisky menu and served in a proper dram with ice and water - highly enjoyable. It was definitely my mission to take home a bottle of real Scottish single malt before I went home.

View from the room

By the time we got up the next day the snow had really started to come down and settled, making for some excellent photos. We walked (or rather slipped) into town for some lunch and proper shopping where I bought a real Scottish tartan scarf from a local mill and a Scots dictionary to impress my friends on my next visit! We had decided to eat in our lodgings this night and spend some quiet time in the cosy living areas of the hostel (rightly voted Inverness's best) before getting ready for our coach to Fort William the next day.

Inverness High Street

Link to days 5-6: http://travellingcyclist2k.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/days-5-6-fort-williammallaig-4-5-march.html

Days 1-2: Aberdeen, Scotland - 28 February-1 March

As it had been a while since I last visited the 'real' Scotland, as I call it, and I had had a desire for some time to revisit some of my old favourite haunts from when I studied in Aberdeen from 2011-12, I decided to take a week off work to have time out and some quiet time in northern Scotland. My first port of call would be Aberdeen for old time's sake and to catch up with friends, followed by a 2 day sojourn in Inverness, then a couple of days in Fort William before returning back home via Edinburgh, where we would spend the final night before heading back 'south' to England.

Close-up view of Marischal College in Aberdeen.

I had decided to invite my Mum along, as I had shown Dad most of the places we were going before, but had never ventured beyond Aberdeen with my Mum. We arrived in Aberdeen to windy and rainy, but otherwise mild, conditions. We were to stay in the Ibis on Shiprow, not the most cultural choice, but well located, clean and friendly. As we didn't arrive until 4pm, having stopped for lunch in Edinburgh, we got a few goodies/supplies from Sainsburys and ate dinner in the hotel restaurant before settling in for the night.

The Lemon Tree cultural and arts centre in Aberdeen.

The following day we did a spot of shopping on Union street following a better than expected hotel breakfast and took a pleasant walk via the soon to be obscured Marischal College. This building unfortunately is soon to be the sight of a new commercial development comprising hotels, shops and eating facilities, and is largely against the wishes of Aberdeen residents, who would prefer a civic space, and it has to be said that the building is well suited to such a development.

View of Castle Gate in Aberdeen.

As it was Sunday not much seemed to be happening in Aberdeen, and we didn't really have time to go to Old Aberdeen or the beach. Still, I had a very pleasant catchup with some badminton buddies at our old haunt The Bobbin in the evening, where we failed heroically at the pub quiz as The Three Racketeers - scoring 1/10 in the last round after one of our number deserted us. Still we didn't hang around too long afterwards before I headed back to pack for our train to Inverness the following morning, and my friend to study (probably) ;).

Link to days 3-4: http://travellingcyclist2k.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/days-3-4-inverness-2-3-march-2015.html

Day 1 - Arrival

I'm sitting in my tent on the first night of my camping adventure. Fortunately, it's not too cold -I think about 10 or 11 degrees Celsius, maybe 12. It feels toasty warm in my tent anyway. I've had a very pleasant day. I made my way here after 4 O'clock, with a suitcase and bicycle in tow (crazy I know, but how else was I going to carry all my stuff?) This would by my heavy(ish) mountain bike to boot. Still, I figured when I got here and set up, I won't have to lug anything about for a few days, or so I hoped. The weather's not looking too bad, at least until Sunday night when the heavens are due to open.

It took around 15-20 minutes to get my tent up - not long at all really, but it took around an hour to get everything set up properly and stored away inside. First task was to get a cup of tea, as I was pretty thirsty after lugging my suitcase up the hill to where I would pitch my tent. Luckily, the wind wasn't so fast that it blew out the gas on my stove, so I had a cup of tea ready within 5 minutes, which I drank whilst savouring the view over the Edale valley.

After this, my first priority was getting some food, as my belly was starting to rumble. I headed down to the Old Nags Head inn, the oldest pub in the village (there's only 2), and dating back to 1577. The front room was open inside, which is not always, but is a rare treat when it is. Open plan and reaching up to the full height of the building, it feels all of it's almost 500 years. Incredibly, the inn now has a carvery, which is very welcoming as an opening night meal, as I couldn't be bothered to cook and there is limited choice in the village shop anyway (which was closed, since I got there after 5pm). The carvery complements the made to order dishes of yore, which are OK, but not as good value. Although still available, any hungry sailor (or cyclist, hiker, whatever) worth his salt would be hard pressed to resist this fine selection of foods, of which i had plenty, washed down by a pleasant local(ish) cider on draught. It was easy, sitting there in the old room with my food and drink, to imagine I was in one of the many fantasy novels I've read set in such medieval places, and I felt quite content at the notion of being in such surroundings.

After this, I walked the food off before heading back for another pint of cider, before returning tentward to contemplate tomorrow's agenda. Most likely I'll be cycling, but this depends what I feel like in the morning. Now it's time to go to sleep listening to the sound of wood fires crackling and sheep bleating. Good night!

Link to day 2: http://travellingcyclist2k.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/day-2-cycling-or-rather-hikling-up.html

Day 2 - Cycling (or rather hikling) up Jacob's ladder

Woke up very early this morning, about 5:30am, due to not having a very good night's sleep thanks to the rain. I got up and went to the toilet before heading back for a couple more hours sleep. As I was coming back from the toilet block however, the grey of early morning sky suddenly changed hue from grey to faint yellow - it was the sun rising. This was one of very few times I have seen such a thing occur (the other time was in the Świętokrzykie mountains in Central Poland), but none-the-less the effect is quite magical. The transformation is quite sudden, but the effect is spell-binding and almost miraculous.

After getting up properly just before 9am, I went down to the shop for some supplies (juice, breakfast items, cookise etc.). Although often in places such as this, where supply is often limited, most items are pretty expensive. However, in the general store in Edale you can get some very reasonably priced items for considerably less than a pound - cookies, flapjacks, toffees, beans, juice, energy drinks, especially if you buy the own brand products, which come highly recommended. In total, I spent less than £5 for everything I would need to snack and drink on.

Anyway, after a 'hearty' breakfast of sausages, beans and bacon (plus a few mushrooms) I set about getting ready for today's bike ride, which would take me from Edale to Hayfield, where the current TV series The Village is set. The ride would take me up Jacob's Ladder, a snaking route that literally seems to climb up to the heavens when seen face on. It's very steep in parts, and turned out to be most definitely not rideable, so my day's ride ended up becoming more of a hike with a bike as I pushed my +13kg mountain bike up and over the top. Admittedly, I was riding a rigid, but even with full suspension you'd need to have legs of steel to have any chance of cycling over such rough, steep terrain.

The route is so steep and rocky for most of the way that I must have spent 4 or 5 miles walking and pushing the bike uphill. None-the-less, some of the views are tremendous. The going did not get any easier as I reached the crest of the hill, as the path downwards seemed to consist of nothing but huge, freshly laid stones, making even walking difficult and uncomfortable. Still, I arrived in Hayfield in good time, sufficiently to have a look around some of the village.

The village really is like a step back in time, containing a butchers, greengrocers, cafe and various other stores. the greengrocers is even done out in authentic 1920's style, complete with stuffed animals hanging outside (presumably for filming). Anyway, I bought some nice sausages, fresh potatoes, a yoghurt and some beans, so knew I could look forward to a hearty dinner when I got back tonight. Even better, the whole lot came to under £3.

My dilemma now was the best way to get back to Edale. If I went back the way I came, I would face even more hills and rocky paths, and if I took the main road, the distance would be twice as long and probably be very busy with traffic (not really what you want when you come away to the country for a few days). So I opted instead to cycle along the Sett Valley Trail, a pleasant and traffic free woodland route passing through nature reserved and pleasant forested area, which would bring me out at New Mills Central train station - I had decided to take the train back. The hills and rough surface had beaten me after only 12 miles (it felt like 112).

Once back at the campsite I had a much needed shower, followed by a brief downpour, and then set about preparing my dinner. It's no mean feat cooking potatoes, sausages and beans with only one gas ring, but I did and this is proof that you don't need all the modern conveniences we have in our homes these days - my gas stove only measures around 30 x 45cm! Still, I probably couldn't do this every day - otherwise where would the fun in that be? Now all that remained to do was choosing whether to go for a guided night time walk in search of bats, or to view a local art exhibition in the church later in the evening.

Link to day 3: http://travellingcyclist2k.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/day-3-short-but-steep-walk-and-home.html

Full route details: http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/view/513444752

Day 3 - A short (but steep) walk and home

I decided not to do the bat walk last night, as when I arrived at the visitor centre about 7:30pm, it was full of parents with their children (as I should have expected). As I was tired from the day's adventure on the hiking trails with the bike, I took the easy option and went to the pub for another drinks - in the Old Nags Head of course. There's nothing wrong with the other pub, it's just a bit more modern and not quite as cosy - and the food is not as good. Still, it's worth a try if you haven't been before! Anyway, back to today.

I slept much better this time, as there was no heavy rain in the night and I was asleep almost instantly from the day's exertions, so I got up about 8:30am to a cup of tea and a breakfast of the the beans I hadn't eaten the night before - waste not want not! The plan for today was to do a bit of a walk that would take me up above the Edale valley looking down, nothing too long and arduous, but something that would stretch the legs.

Before setting out however, I cycled down to the visitor centre and left my bike there to collect on the way down later - rather than walk back down with a suitcase and bike in tow, I would only have half as far to walk with both things, so figured this made sense. Inside the visitor centre I picked up a book of walks around Edale. I know most of them already, having been coming here some years, but I figured there may be something new in there I haven't done before, such as a new route, and I simply couldn't resist the colour coded map in the back showing all the routes over-traced on a pristine white section of Ordnance Survey map.

After finishing at the visitor centre I turned right onto the road and right again to cross the little river that passes Fieldhead campsite - a truly wonderful spot which never fails to inspire me with it's grassy glade next to the running of the stream. I headed out across the field towards Ollerbrook farm, before turning right then left again into open counry - this was a gentle but continuous ascent towards Ollerbrook Clough and Blackwell Plantation. However, I made a left turn through the heather-strewn field towards The Nab, which crests a ridge with fantastic views over the Edale valley and Heardman's plantation.

The switchback of the usual descent brings you back out at Grindsbrook Booth and Grindslow House. However, I took the alternate route which is a bit more direct and involves scrambling down a very steep banked pathway back down into the heart of the valley where Edale Village resides. Once again, the views from up here are sensational, and it's important to have both hands free as you slide down the bushy slope. Still, it's well worth it for the view it affords over the other walkers making the more traditional way up towards The Nab. Still, you'd be very hard pressed to ascend this way, as it's tough going and even on the way down gravity is always threatening to pull you down to ground level. Still, it makes for a fascinating and thrilling downhill run.

Once back down in the heart of the valley, I descended the steps crossing the stream and climbed back out the other side to Grindslow House before heading back to the campsite. I borrowed a tin opener for a third time from a third person in order to cook the soup I'd bought yesterday, rather than eat out or leave food here that I didn't want to carry. I decided to cut my losses and go home early, as all the signs from the weather forecast seemed to suggest that by early evening and tomorrow morning the rain would really be hammering down. I was taking no chances and decided to pack up before nightfall so as not to be packing everything up in the rain. Fortunately I packed up in good time and had time for a nice milky latte at the little cafe by the station before catching the train home. It should be noted here that the cafe near Edale station is nice and pleasant, but has now been taken over by the National Trust. It used to be owned by a woman and her dog who used to cook things from the menu or anything else you may fancy - whilst the choices from the menu are still good, it seems to have lost that 'one-of-a-kind' and homely feel it had before.

Still, nothing stays the same forever, but fortunately the village itself and most of the things that make it appealing haven't changed in the least. The village shop still has products in it that look like they've been on sale since the early 1990's, and the visitor centre still has videos to watch (if not still in the same format as they were when I was a kid). All in all, this has been a fantastic trip and somewhat different to the usual caravan adventures, where I'm almost always accompanied by family or friends. It had been nice just to be on my own doing things in my own way, living an independent yet simple life even if only for a few days. And best of all, I still have the Bank Holiday off tomorrow! Rejoice.

Full route details: http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/view/513444752

Groupset photos

Sunday ride and the Doncaster Cycling Festival

Date: 1 June 2014
Length of route: 44.5km/27.8 miles
Route: Doncaster-Turnholme Wood-Thorpe-in-Balne-Trumfleet-Haywood-Holme- Cusworth-Sprotbrough-Doncaster
Difficult level: Easy-medium

      
Well today was an interesting today of cycling and bike-related things. Today was yet again the day of my intended ride in the Peak District. However, it appears that for one reason or another I am ill-fated not to do this ride. First of all it was the rain, then yesterday I was hampered by inner tube problems - today it was the turn of train's not running to Sheffield day, from where I intended to start the route. Since I had no intention of cycling all the way to Sheffield and then starting the route, I decided to give upping my mileage a go in Doncaster and around instead.

Fortunately for me, today was the day of the Doncaster Cycling Festival - the first in 25 years! Of course, it's no Tour De France/Giro D'Italia, but it made a nice change for Doncaster to have something interesting going on, whilst also giving the Council an opportunity to put the new 'Cultural Quarter' into action as June begins in earnest and the sun shines down on our heads. Basically, the festival was a series of races for different age/ability groups doing a number of laps around the town centre on closed roads, with a series of stalls nearby promoting cycling and offering a number of freebies (free drinking bottle, anyone?).

There were plenty of people at the festival strolling around in cycling gear, training on turbos and also a few of the local cycling clubs out and about in force, which I have to say makes a nice change from the usual Doncaster crowds. Anyway, enough of that and onto the ride.Almost as soon as I left the house my vision was assaulted by a couple of cyclists ahead of me, who I overtook in my earnest to get going. Whilst stopped at the red light out onto the main road however, they caught me up and I discovered that these were two female cyclists in their late 60's/early 70's (as far as I could tell).

They asked me very politely if I could possibly tell them how to get to the Doncaster Cycling Festival, as they had attempted to find it twice already and had failed. Fortunately for them, and me being a jolly amiable soul, I told them I was going that way and just to follow me, as I was headed into that direction. I imagined them saying 'What a nice young gentleman he was.' after we parted ways, however I decided not to dwell on such arrogant thoughts and after a brief look round the stalls and watching the racers go by, I headed on my merry way.

I had decided to head out to the country lanes to the west of Doncaster on a similar route to that me and my friend took a couple of months ago on our 120 mile/four day 'epic', as the roads round there tend to be very quiet and free of traffic. I somehow managed to take a wrong turning and therefore ended up going across som gravelly sections of tarmac and through a rather dark and mysterious forest - luckily the terrain wasn't anything I couldn't handle and I emerged into daylight on the other side to find a very wide and large brand new bridge (that somehow didn't fit with the area at all) to take me across to the quite farming villages that populate this area of the country.

Arriving in the small village of Thorpe-in-Balne, at about the halfway point of the ride, I had a snack and looked at my phone to find that unfortunately my Strava app had crashed, and I would have to start recording from scratched. Luckily the ride data were safe, but I couldn't carry on recording from where I left off. I set out again taking another turn off which informed me the road ahead was closed at the level crossing. So I took another left that I knew would bring me out at the same place but over the crossing. Unfortunately I had to turn back as some guard dogs began barking at me and I didn't feel too comfortable attempting to out cycle them on such a narrow country road. Back the way I came then!

I decided to make my way up to the level crossing rather than go round the houses as I thought there might be some way I could get across being just a bike - there was a manned signal box there, where I asked the guy inside if I could possibly get across, since the sign seemed to suggest the engineering works had come to an end, and the crossing simply not reopened. Fortunately, he checked the train schedule and let me across, where I eventually came out on the busy A638 main road leading back into Doncaster. Rather than carry on this busy and unpleasant road, I saw a sign not much further along pointing to Brodsworth Hall and Cusworth.

Since I knew this was a way I could get back home whilst adding in a few hills, I decided to go that way, thus avoiding more traffic. My legs were starting to feel slightly fatigued by this point so I stopped by the road side for a final snack and turned off before reaching more familiar territory and an excellent downhill (right before a nasty curving upward slope) before reaching home. I managed the hill much better than I used to and I'm pleased to say I resisted any urge to go into my lowest ring, as I really don't reckon it's necessary in almost all of Doncaster. I arrived home in one piece to take a refreshing shower and reflect on a pleasant days cycling. Here's to finally making it to the Peak District for a ride in the near future!